Scandinavia - a land of extremes, on the edge of Europe. Andrew Graham-Dixon explores the extraordinary art to come out of the dark Norwegian soul, most famous for producing The Scream by Edvard Munch.

Denmark emerges from modest beginnings to become one of the greatest powers and arbiters of taste in northern Europe, a story of incredible transformation befitting the homeland of the greatest fairytale spinner of them all, Hans Christian Anderson, creator of The Ugly Duckling and The Emperor's New Clothes.

Andrew arrives in Sweden - home of IKEA and a tradition of brilliant furniture design stretching back to the early years of the 20th century. Sweden has made its modern democratic mission one of comfort and civilised living for the masses - but has it got there?